How much oil kz400

But this was not intended for sporting riding like the Z-1, and the brakes worked fine for commuter use. Distance between the axles was The wet-sump engine was straightforward, being slightly oversquare with a 64mm bore, 62mm stroke.

It did not smooth out all vibrations, but for anyone happy to ride at two-thirds of redline 9, rpm it was entirely adequate. Commuters, the intended buyers, were not known as rip-snorting riders. The four valves, two per cylinder, were pushed down by a single overhead camshaft, and 36mm Keihin CV carbs fed high-test gas preferred and air into the combustion chambers, where it was compressed The engine was rated by the factory at 35 ponies, which was usually measured at the crankshaft, not the rear wheel; on a dyno it was closer to Respectable; good for an honest 90 mph.

In , with the fuel crisis in the headlines, the carb size was reduced to 32mm to enhance mileage figures a little. And the compression was raised to 9. Ignition was by battery and single two-feed coil.

Starting was by button, except a kickstarter was there as a backup, as many Americans did not yet fully trust electrically powered gizmos. Primary drive was via a Hy-Vo chain, and then through a wet clutch to a five-speed transmission and chain final drive.

The long, flat saddle was great for one person, a bit crowded for two. Looks were OK, with shiny chrome fenders and nice paint on the 3.

Curb weight was a shade more than pounds. The only complaint seemed to be about occasional oil weepage coming from around the head. The number of KZ models expanded. The low-price version stayed with five speeds and had a two-into-one exhaust. This modest motorcycle was also a modest financial success.

For the engine was bored out to And I will definitely buy one tomorrow! Agreed, this bike would sell in record numbers this year as original. Simple, quick, efficient and reliable are qualities that sell and the styling is still solid today. As the owner of this actual bike, I would love to see it with EFI since the carburetors are the major downfall of this bike.

You can ride it for a week and then it just decides to quite running right and the carbs have to come apart. I never seem to find anything particularly wrong but it always seems to run when I put it back together. I had a 77 model and rode the heck out of it when I joined the Navy. Got me all over the southeastern US of A. In the 2 years I owned it I put 13, miles on it. Sold it before I deployed. I bought one in when I lived in Ontario.

It had the two into one exhaust. Had it for two years. It gave me no problems, however had trouble getting past 70MPH, and was a bit wheezy cruising at highway speed. Had to use the gearshift quite a bit to get the most out of it. Traded it on a GS, which was quite an improvement. A very good bike though, very simple and worked well as intended. I should have put a windshield on it, might have been easier to ride at speed.

Sold it to buy a Commando — not the best decision! Saw it later with nearly 90k on the clock. Ideal for anyone starting a mineralogy study. Completely eliminate the need for plastic bags. Almost all designs can be made into a matching tie clip or necklace or mirror or keychain or winestopper or any of the items that I make.

Store your beloved jewelrey in cool and dry places. Should you require part of your order to be printed with a different artwork within a production run. Dimensions: 3" wide x 20" circumference. Vintage earrings by CORO in gold tone metal and multicolored rhinestones. Vintage Bucilla Christmas Greetings 6 Pce.

The BlueBeans. Convenience has been added. There is still a way to go. Even commuters deserve better suspension. A more comfortable seat would be nice. The power is adequate for a commuter bike. On the Kawasaki's side is convenience. It is an easy to use motorcycle which would seem to be just what commuters have been asking for. If the cost of gasoline doubles, Kawasaki will sell a bundle. Home Manufacturer Contact. Contact Terms of Use Policy Links. Kawasaki Z Make Model. Bore x Stroke. Compression Ratio.

Cooling System. Air cooled. Forced lubrication, wet sump. Max Power. Max Torque. Final Drive. Tubular, double cradle. Front Suspension. Telescopic fork. Rear Suspension. Swing arm.

Front Brakes. Single mm disc. Rear Brakes. Front Tyre. Rear Tyre. Ground Clearance. Dry Weight. Fuel Capacity. Consumption Average. Second, I've acquired some vinyl fish tank tubing, and attempting to use it.

I don't have a turkey baster, although that's a brilliant idea. I'm forced to suck it through the tube a little at a time. Is there a technique for getting the tube down to the oil?

I have about a foot and a half, and when I feed that down and suck, it's not picking up any oil. I don't mind the mess that is the oil drain plug method, are there any downsides as far as accuracy with that method? Stop drinking the oil You need to fish the tubing down into the sump of the bike.

That PVC tube likes to curl so you will have to rotate it around until you find you can draw oil out. Nothing other than mess and amount removed, you can do it through the drain plug just fine. I think you are trying to expect brain surgery results from a sanitation engineer attempts. The oil level just needs to be between the marks on the glass when filled and standing up right and level.

Your bike will most likely use oil, and you simply replenish. Check your manual or do a google search and verify capacity.

You certainly have not added enough to cause a problem, because if it was ariating the oil, your oil pressure light would flicker Just ride the thing and start learning about your bike.

An oil cooler is a finned device much like a radiator on a car. It will sit up, in front of the engine just below the lower triple tree. It will have a supply and return oil line plumbed into it. It simply circulates the oil through it to shed heat. Oil coolers require additional oil be added to the factory capacity simply because you are adding system volume. NakedFun wrote:.